Hunter Valley

The Hunter Valley has been producing wine since the 1820s — longer than most of the world's celebrated wine regions have existed as commercial operations. The lower Hunter, centred on Pokolbin, is primarily known for semillon and shiraz grown in the red-brown volcanic soils of the valley floor. The semillon, in particular, is uniquely Australian: bone dry and apparently light when young, it ages for fifteen years into a wine of extraordinary complexity.

The density of cellar doors per square kilometre here is remarkable — from small family operations pouring out of a weatherboard shed to estates with restaurants, accommodation and live music events. The Saturday morning Hunter Valley Farmers Market at Roche Estate pulls a serious crowd, and the food culture has lifted significantly in recent years. McGuigan, Tyrrell's, Brokenwood and Tower Lodge all offer different entry points to the wine experience.

Away from the cellar doors, the Hunter is horse country. Studs line the valley floor from Cessnock north — thoroughbreds visible from the road at dusk, grazing in the golden light that makes the Hunter particularly photogenic in late afternoon. The Barrington Tops, an hour north, rise to sub-alpine country with dense Antarctic beech forest and wilderness camping for those who want to earn their evening wine.